SHOE DESIGN COURSES

Duration : 13 weeks, full time.Monday to Friday

Language : English

Fee : €9250 +vat

2014 : Sold out

2015 : 7th Jan /8thapril/26thAug./

Training Program

More than 50% of the 400 hour class sessions is dedicated to footwear pattern making, a topic which is indispensable for both designers and technicians. Ars Sutoria’s renown technical methodology is effectively used in shoe factories with extreme precision compared to the traditional trial and error approach. Women’s, men’s and children’s shoes are covered during this course.

WEEK 1

Students attend a detailed preliminary explanation of the footwear manufacturing process. We believe that is fundamental that every student has a deep knowledge of the footwear manufactring process and that he/she is aware of all the materials and components employed during production of shoes. This one week module can also be attended as a separate module. Visits to companies such as footwear manufacturing plants, leather tannery, last-making facilty, heel-maker and sole manufacturer are part of the training program.

WEEK 2 to 11

With the second week of the course we start covering the pattern making techniques in depth. At the beginning students use training lasts that we have developed during the years to better understand how proportions and volumes of the last are related to the correct fitting of the shoe. After few weeks students start to use production last prepared by our specialists for the different kind of shoes. The Ars Sutoria working method has been an effort that we have made during the last 65 years to set precise rules on how the patterns of the different shoe styles have to be made. Trials are firstly made in paper and cardboard then cut in leather and assembled by a professional stitcher. Students learn the details of how to design and develop more complicated shoes such as boots, ankle boots, moccasins, asymmetrical styles, high fashion and training shoes (cemented).

For those that wish to go in depth of how to use 2D CAD systems as a support for the pattern making we organise a 2D CAD seminar for pattern making after class lessons

During the pattern making sessions we usually organise further theoretical lessons on last analysis and proportions, size conversions, rules for pattern grading and nesting/cutting. The notions learned during this theoretical part together with all the knowledge from the practical exercises of the pattern making sessions are part of a final examination. This exam will allow each participant to better understand the level of acheivements after the weeks of the course and it is fundamental to obtain the diploma from the school

WEEK 12

A whole week in a shoe laboratory to involve our students in the sample making process.

The industrial shoe making process require dedicated machineries and that is why part of the course is organise in the footwear laboratory managed by CNR-ITIA that is located in the near town of Vigevano (45 minutes drive from Milan). All materials and components needed to manufacture shoes are supplied by the school

NOTE. Students that work in a company and wish to bring their own structures to be able to work on them, need to agree this possibility with our teachers

In the laboratory a professional stitcher and a shoe technician support our teachers and students in the sample making process. Every student work on his/her shoe sample but they also learn from looking at all the samples of the other students. The objective is to be exposed to the issues that arise during the sample making process of the different styles. The laboratory is equipped with machineries for the cemented construction.

WEEK 13

The week of the final examination that include a a fit testing session of the samples produced during week 12 in the laboratory

For those that wish to go in depth of the working method to organise footwear collections we offer our students an additional module at the end of the 13 weeks called footwear collection development / merchandising planning

Duration : 3 weeks, full time.Monday to Friday

Language : English

Fee : €3500 +vat

2014 : 1st Dec.

2015 (4 Weeks) : 8april/6th july/ 23rd Nov

Training Program

In a highly competitive environment such as today’s, it is more important than ever to develop collections that are both commercially viable and efficient in terms of production.
A new collection will have success if the new fashion trends are interpreted, construed and adapted to the specific competitive scenario and with an eye on business efficiency (investments in facilities, production costs).

For both a young designer who decides to launch his own line and a company with tradition and structure, this process requires identification of a precise target audience, consistency between the supply of the product and the distribution channel, the correct price positioning and an appropriate choice of production processes and supply of materials.

The “Collection Development” three-week course focuses on explaining the needs of the different operators, often in conflict with each other, in order to better interact with the different professionals, both inside and outside the company, who are involved in the manufacturing and marketing of the product.

Marketing and trend analysis

Introduction to the process of developing a collection within a brand :

  • consumer profile and market positioning of the brand
  • competitor analysis : which are the brands competitors/comparable in the chosen market segment
  • trend analysis : the trend analysis is supported by the professionals that work in the fashion trend research team of the Ars Sutoria magazine
Footwear sketching

The basics of shoe sketching (making a copy of the most common shoe styles both man and woman)

  • Sketching from a real sample
  • Technical drawing of the shoe: proportions and measures
  • Preparation of the spec sheet: three-quarter, side, front view
  • use of Adobe Photoshop
Merchandising plan

Introduction to merchandising planning :

  • what is: some definitions and why is so important to realize a balanced collection appealing to your target
  • a concrete example of a merchandising plan
  • detailed explanation of all the information that are part of a well structured plan
  • the role of the quantitative analysis
  • criteria to decide the right dimension of the collection

Hands on:

  • focus the number of lines and styles of the plan
  • define shoe constructions and analysis of the footwear structures
From merchandising plan to product design
  • product sketching, starting from the mood boards and from the merchandising plan and focusing the products to be designed and developed
  • design of the last (focus the shapes)
  • heels and outsoles (design and materials/constructions)
  • shoe styles and materials choice

BAG DESIGN COURSES

Duration : 6 weeks, Full time.Monday to Friday

Language : English

Fee : €5250 +vat

2014 : 29th Sept.

2015 : 28th Jan/ 28th April / 16th Sept.

Training Program

The most relevant part of the 210 class hours is dedicated to bag pattern making, a topic which is indispensable for both designers and technicians. Ars Sutoria’s renown technical working method is effectively used in handbag companies with extreme precision compared to the traditional trial and error approach.

Introduction To Bag Making

The first part of the training program is dedicated to an introduction to the bag making process.

The glossary comes first: industry wording and names of the different parts of a bag such as front face, bottom, gusset, flap etc. The objective is to establish a common language among students and instructor. The class than moves to the analysis of few of the most common characteristics and features of the bag: it includes but it is not limited to briefcase gussets, frame clutches, bags with darts and pleats, etc

The following topic covered during the course is the classification of the different bags according to their body types: e.g. rigid bags, soft bags, mixed bodies. Then the categories of bags according to the style and the use/function: e.g. shopping, truncks, business, totes, hobos, etc . The instructor shows pictures and real samples of bags to better explain the external and internal constructions

Knowledge of materials, accessories and components used in the manufacturing of bags is one of the most important parts of the training. In detail the course will focus different kind of pockets, shoulder straps, handles, zippers and fastening systems. Metal hardware and accessories such as rings, spring hooks etc. are fundamental for bag designers and technicians. Materials for outside and lining as leathers and their finishings, synthetics and fabrics will be covered in depth. One major topic for bag making is the study of different kind of reinforcements and adhesives

We believe it is also important to mention few subjects related to the bag manufacturing process and operations: explanation of a traditional process, notions on threads and needles, machines used in a factory, workbench tools most commonly used, dying and finishing products like edge finishing colors and polish

Pattern Making Techniques

Students learn how to convert sketches into technical projects of outside parts and linings with measures to be transformed into patterns ready for cutting. At the end of the course, students must be in the condition to create the cardboard patterns of the most commonly used bags

The learning path will generally cover both men’s and women’s bags. Some bags will be engineered in all their components: patterns of the outside , lining, reinforcements and details (e.g. handles , ring holders, pockets, etc). For some other bags the course will cover the engineering of the main details such as particular flaps, T-constructions and composite gussets

The explanation covers the technical subdivision of bags whose main pattern is the gusset, the faces and the bottom too. Examples of bags studied during the course might be Shoulder bags, Satchels, Hobos, Totes, Bucket bags, Backpacks, Drawstring bags, Business/Briefcases, Frame Clutches and Envelopes, Bags with darts and pleats

Understanding how pieces of outsides and linings of bags have to be designed, will focus the attention and learning on how pockets, shoulder straps, particular closing systems work and need to be designed and prepared for the assembling

In order to gain a better understanding of the pattern engineering a rough test of the bag or parts of it are cut and stitched in cardboard or sample materials. The instructor will show preparation, construction and stitching techniques of the pieces cut in the sample material

Some fundamental explanation is given on the different families of linings used according to the type of the outside body and the final result required. Other important focus regards the several types of constructions. Some of them must be learned by making patterns and some prototypes

Making The Bag

At Ars Sutoria School we believe in learning by making. During the entire course the instructor will guide student to upgrade their skill with hands on activities at the workbench and in the school workshop. During the last week students are requested to manufacture an entire bag. This activity will allow a better understanding of design, engineering, materials used and operations. The school supplies all materials and tools needed to produce the prototype. The school workshop is equipped with all machines and tools for sample making: one skiving and one splitting machines and 3 stitching machines among the others

Duration : 3 weeks, Full time.Monday to Friday

Language : English

Fee : €3500 +vat

2014 : 10th Nov.

2015 (4 Weeks) : 9th March/8th June / 26th Oct.

Training Program

In a highly competitive environment such as today’s, it is more important than ever to develop collections that are both commercially viable and efficient in terms of production.
A new collection will have success if the new fashion trends are interpreted, construed and adapted to the specific competitive scenario and with an eye on business efficiency (investments in facilities, production costs).

For both a young designer who decides to launch his own line and a company with tradition and structure, this process requires identification of a precise target audience, consistency between the supply of the product and the distribution channel, the correct price positioning and an appropriate choice of production processes and supply of materials.

The “Collection Development” three-week course focuses on explaining the needs of the different operators, often in conflict with each other, in order to better interact with the different professionals, both inside and outside the company, who are involved in the manufacturing and marketing of the product.

Bag sketching

The basics of handbag sketching (making a copy of the most common bag styles both man and woman)

  • Sketching from a real sample
  • Technical drawing of the bag: proportions and measures
  • Preparation of real scale designs with views
  • notions of metal hardware sketching
  • use of Adobe Photoshop
Marketing and trend analysis

Introduction to the process of developing a collection within a brand :

  • consumer profile and market positioning of the brand
  • competitor analysis: which are the brands competitors/comparable in the chosen market segment
  • trend analysis: the trend analysis is supported by the professionals that work in the fashion trend research team of the Ars Sutoria magazine
Merchandising plan

Introduction to merchandising planning :

  • what is: some definitions and why is so important to realize a balanced collection appealing to your target
  • a concrete example of a merchandising plan
  • detailed explanation of all the information that are part of a well structured plan
  • the role of the quantitative analysis
  • criteria to decide the right dimension of the collection
From merchandising plan to product design
  • product sketching, starting from the mood boards and from the merchandising plan and focusing the products to be designed and developed
  • bag styles and materials amd colors choice
  • final presentation of the collection

ONE WEEK COURSES

Duration : 3 days, Full time.Monday to wednesday

Language : English

Fee :€1200 +vat

2014 : SOLD OUT.

2015 : 7th Jan/ 8th April / 26th Aug.

Training Program

During this five day full immersion training session we introduce our students to the art of traditional shoe making from the initial design, to pattern making, to cutting, nesting , assembling and finishing stage of the footwear production process giving them some tips and tricks to help save in cost.

The foot, last, upper, middle and bottom components are analysed in depth with the help of samples and detailed videos. Each student, with the assistance of a fit technician and our senior instructor will have the opportunity to understand why their favourite shoe “just doesn’t feel that comfortable” and the reason why.

It is our goal to stir the curiosity of each student to have the constant desire to want to learn and understand more about the art of shoemaking and continue to work with passion in this industry

Overview of the most popular footwear constructions :

  • AGO/Cemented, Goodyear, Blake, Stitched-Out/Ideal, Moccasin, Sacchetto (Slip Lasting) Strobel, Opanka, Vulcanized and Direct Injection

Step-by-step analysis :

  • AGO/Cemented footwear process including: stages of production, types of equipment, components required in each phase of the process

Detailed instruction on Upper Components :

  • Identification of different materials used for uppers and linings (leather, fabrics, man-made)
  • Overview of the leather tanning process, leather finishing
  • Types of leather and other materials such as synthetics
  • Upper edge finishing

Detailed instruction on Middle Components :

  • Footwear lasts: proportions, volumes and measurements, types of lasts
  • Types of insoles and footbeds
  • Types of toe boxes and back stiffener

Detailed instruction on Bottom Components :

  • Traditional outsoles (leather and rubber), heels, units, platforms
  • Chemical sole-units: rubber, TPR, PVC, PU, TPU, EVA

Duration : 4 days, Full time.Monday to Thursday

Language : English

Fee : €1500 +vat

2014 : SOLD OUT.

2015 (two weeks) : 8th April / 6th July/23rd Nov.

Training Program

Objective of this course is to teach students (both shoe professionals with few years of experience or beginners of the shoe industry) the basics of shoe sketching. During this sketching class we do not teach any pattern making method. Even though it is important to know that shoe sketching benefits from a basic technical understand of the shoes and related components. That is why we suggest that participants to this module attend the 1 week introduction course too.

The course is organised over a period or five days, and it covers the following topics :

sketching from a real sample :

  • this first activity is perfomed making a copy of the most common shoe styles (both man and woman) and it gives the students the correct initial proportions to design a shoe

technical drawing of the last and bottom components :

  • n the shoe-making the last is the starting point of every activity both from a technical and from a stylistic point of view. Being able to sketch the volumes of the last gives the students a different perspective of the 3dimensionality of the shoes and it gives also the basics for the sketchin of the bottom of the shoe (outsoles and heels)

technical drawing of the shoe :

  • proportions and measures are indeed really important. The first stylistic draft has to be translated into a precise project of a shoe with the different views of the 3D object

preparation of the spec sheet:

  • it is fundamental in shoe design not only to reproduce the shoe in a 3D view but also to specify in details all the materials and components of the shoe so that the next technical development activity can be more accurate and fast

The main outcome of the course is to enable students to express their creativity and at the same time let the product development of the product be more effective and straighforward. At the end of the class students will be able to hand sketch the most common shoe styles.

Duration : 3 days, Full time.Monday to wednesday

Language : English

Fee :€1200 +vat

2014 : SOLD OUT.

2015 : 7th Jan/ 8th April / 26th Aug.

Training Program

The first part of the training program is dedicated to an introduction to the bag making process.

The glossary comes first: industry wording and names of the different parts of a bag such as front face, bottom, gusset, flap etc. The objective is to establish a common language among students and instructor. The class than moves to the analysis of few of the most common characteristics and features of the bag: it includes but it is not limited to briefcase gussets, frame clutches, bags with darts and pleats, etc

The following topic covered during the course is the classification of the different bags according to their body types: e.g. rigid bags, soft bags, mixed bodies. Then the categories of bags according to the style and the use/function: e.g. shopping, truncks, business, totes, hobos, etc . The instructor shows pictures and real samples of bags to better explain the external and internal constructions

Knowledge of materials, accessories and components used in the manufacturing of bags is one of the most important parts of the training. In detail the course will focus different kind of pockets, shoulder straps, handles, zippers and fastening systems. Metal hardware and accessories such as rings, spring hooks etc. are fundamental for bag designers and technicians. Materials for outside and lining as leathers and their finishings, synthetics and fabrics will be covered in depth. One major topic for bag making is the study of different kind of reinforcements and adhesives

We believe it is also important to mention few subjects related to the bag manufacturing process and operations: explanation of a traditional process, notions on threads and needles, machines used in a factory, workbench tools most commonly used, dying and finishing products like edge finishing colors and polish

Duration : 1 week, Full time.Monday to Friday

Language : English

Fee : €1500 +vat

2014 : 10th Nov.

2015 (two weeks) : 9th March / 8th June/ 26th Oct.

Training Program

Objective of this short course is to teach students how to draw a complete handbag, both as a functional creative freehand sketch with measurements and as a technical 1:1 scale drawing with 4 views (top, front, side, perspective).

This module is part of the first week of the 3 Weeks Collection Development Course

Some of the activities included in this course are :

Sketching from a real sample

Students are given a real life sample handbag and are challenged to reproduce it as a freehand black and white drawing in the best way they can by following instructions and geometric diagrams given by the instructor.

This has multiple functions :

  • introduce students to the main stylistic elements of handbags
  • start making the students comfortable in drawing bags freely
  • set a starting point for the class skill level
Technical drawing of the bag: proportions and measures

This part is a little bit more challenging than the previous one, but it has the added benefit of forcing students into calculating and considering the proportions of each and every component of a handbag.

Preparation of real scale designs with views

Students should now be able to make a full size, 1:1 scale technical drawing of a bag. Purpose of this type of drawing is to give a better idea of how the previously sketched handbag will look by specificating volumes and proportions.

It is the technical translation of the previously made hand sketch in order to help operators and technicians involved into the manufacturing stage to follow and build up a correct final prototype.

Notions of metal hardware sketching

Metal hardware and accessories such as rings, spring hooks etc. are fundamental for bag designers and technicians, since they can “make or break” a bag design. Students will be introduced to some fundamental rules about designing metal hardware for their bags, and how these elements impact the design and quality of said bags.